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The
Big Dipper Route
A new paperback book by Danny Bereza
Out now!
Other
Writing by Danny Bereza...
THE
ROYAL HOTEL
by
Danny Bereza
There
was something enticing about that old, historic Atlin
building. As I stood before it I could see that it was
aged, the wood tinder-dry and the paint peeling as it
sat in mute testimony of an exotic time gone by. What
struck me first was the quiet. Cars could be whizzing
by, crunching gravel beneath their tires; chatting people
could saunter along the boardwalk, laughing or talking
intimately; an airplane could fly by, its propeller
ripping through the sky; but the building would remain
silent. There was nobody inside, the windows were all
shuttered and the doors locked tightly. A large, fading
sign above the main entrance read, Royal Hotel. A FOR
SALE sign, also fading, languished nearby, tacked high
up on the wall as if to keep the children from tearing
it down.
“What
secrets lie inside”? I thought. “When was it built and
by who?” “Did anybody die inside and was anybody born
within its walls?” “What stories could it tell me?”
I
walked around it, peering through the old windows that
were stained and warped with age. With my nose pressed
up against the glass I could smell the building. It
had the must of age mixed with cedar and old paint heated
by the warm summer sun. I saw nothing due to the dark
within. It was a large structure for such a small town.
The only building that seemed to be bigger was the White
Pass Hotel down by the waterfront, also abandoned for
many years.
“I
wonder how I can get in to see what’s inside.” I thought.
“Maybe there is someone in town who has the key.”
After
a little bit of detective work I found out that Margaret
Turner had the key. She agreed to let me look inside
and graciously opened the door for me. She was in charge
of selling the building and opened the main door with
a mock flare, bowing deeply at the waist.
While
my eyes grew accustomed to the dark interior excitement
tingled my skin. I smelled the air again. It was a bit
stale but not unpleasant. There was also a hint of engine
oil and rubber almost as if I was standing in a service
station bay. I was standing in the main lobby looking
straight ahead at a large snooker table filled with
dishes and cutlery that had been stacked carefully and
covered with a white sheet. A large staircase led to
the top floor where twenty-five bedrooms were located.
On my left was a small office with a huge safe dominating
the room? I walked over to it and tried to open it but
it was shut, its secrets locked inside.
There
was a door a door in the back of the office which led
to what looked like a general store. There were two
long show-cases with glass that was rippled and hazy
with age. In the cases were several items of miner’s
clothing and tools that had, at one time, been offered
for sale. There were old cans of oil and a couple of
tires sitting on a shelf, accounting for the smell I
noticed on entering the hotel. In an adjoining room
a butcher store had been operating but was now closed.
The only remaining pieces of equipment were a large,
wooden butcher block with the top concaved in after
many years of service and a manually operated meat slicing
machine.
Upstairs
a long hallway ushered me to twenty-five silent guest
rooms. In several of the rooms there were beds with
mattresses and brass headboards and white porcelain
washbowls and water pitchers sitting on top of four-drawer
dressers.
I
fell in love with that old hotel. I had fantasies of
buying it and rebuilding it to its original glory; a
gold rush hotel with all its history and warmth but
with modern guest rooms complete with running water
and telephones. But I didn’t have enough money to buy
it. Herman and Doris Peterson paid me well to fly a
Beaver for them but I had almost no money in the bank
and the job was only good for the summer float season.
I
contacted my cousin, Jack Ainsworth, and told him about
the hotel. My enthusiastic description about the spell
of the North, the enchantment of the still-operating
gold mines in the area and the potential for tourism
convinced Jack. He and his friend, Harvey Grigg, anted
up a third of the money each and we bought it. In 1966
we paid $1600.00 total for the hotel, which included
three city lots. Excitedly I painted a sign, 1967 CENTENNIAL
RESTORATION, in honour of the coming one-hundredth anniversary
of Canadian Confederation and banged it up where the
FOR SALE sign had been attached.
Walking
through the hotel I once again came to the huge safe.
It was locked and I didn’t have the combination. Nobody
in town knew it either so I pondered for many days how
to open it. There was a locksmith in Whitehorse but
it would have probably cost a lot of money to get him
down to Atlin.
In
the meantime I wanted to find out how much it would
cost to restore the hotel. I had worked for Bob Campbell
who owned Campbell Lumber in Whitehorse so I phoned
him and asked him what he thought it would cost to rebuild
the building. Bob, who knew the hotel, told me that
it would cost around $200,000.00, including bed linen
and wine glasses. Dejectedly I realized that there was
no way the three of us could afford to restore it. I
was only making about $1000.00 per month and I doubt
if Jack and Harvey were making any more.
The
summer of ’66 flew by and the hotel stayed empty except
for me who would walk its rooms enjoying the history
and trying to find a way to open the safe. I tried all
sorts of combinations including listening for the clicks
as the dial turned. Nothing worked. One day I had the
idea to look for the combination on the wall and the
door frame. Within seconds I found it and excitedly
wound the dial until the door opened. Inside there were
literally dozens of old mining claims from the gold
rush period. They were in perfect shape albeit invalid.
I packed them in a box and put them in a friend’s basement
for storage. Unfortunately, a couple of years later
someone cleaned the basement and burned them, thinking
that they were junk.
At
the end of the float season I bid farewell to Herman
and Doris and went about the business of becoming an
airline pilot. Before I left Dr. Maynard Miller, a geologist
who was instrumental in starting the Atlin Museum, asked
me what I planned to do with all the artefacts that
were still in the hotel. I told him that I was going
to leave them inside the building but he talked me into
putting them into the fledgling museum where they would
be safe. “You can take them back any time you want,”
he said. Several years later I visited the museum but
nobody remembered were the artefacts came from so they
still remain in the museum.
Jack,
Harvey and I still wanted to fix up the hotel but just
didn’t have the funds. Around 1970 I received a letter
from the Fire Department saying that the building had
become a fire hazard so it had to be fixed up or destroyed.
With no time nor money we sold it to Walter Klasner
from Atlin who tore it down and used the wood to build
cabins. Many years later we sold the land to a couple
from Juneau who built a big, beautiful log house it.
Over
the years I’ve regretted selling the building to be
torn down. If we had somehow managed to fix it up enough
that it wouldn’t have been a fire hazard one of Atlin’s
premier historic buildings would still be standing.
At
this site you can find out more about The
Big Dipper Route, learn about the author,
read an extract,
see photos and
a map of where the events
of the story take place, as well as order
your copy!
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